GUEST GALLERY: "Norway-1943" 1/32 by AITOR AZKUE.

This is the latest piece from Aitor Azkue. If you don´t recall the name you´ll may want to check his "Never Ending History?" here, you most likely remember it.
With this work Aitor bring us a dramatic sight of the most bitter side of aviation. As usual in his latest works the central scene attracts immediately the viewer attention making us to focus in the story. From there we can begin a voyage around the surrounding background just to check the amazing level of detail and realism that enhance the emotion of the message. Aitor is a diorama artist that transcends the mere standards of technical skills in modelling and composition and search a way to touch the spectator. An artist in all the extension of the word (a not enough valued modeller in my opinion, but certainly he will be).
Just a thought about one of my favourite elements, the derelict skiff or, as I like to say, the oblivion boat. Why is it there? Is only an element for filling an empty angle? It has some significance? Well, everyone can make his guess but personally I think it is a sour metaphor about the doom of the crashed bird and maybe of the wounded crewmen as well.
It is hard to be original in the qualification of these kind of works; Aitor always makes me to improve my English vocabulary. What about delightful?
I hope this Norway bitter scene moves you as much as it moved me.

Q  


The inception:


The culmination:

 






 




An example of the interior detailing:


Here a few shots with a warmer illumination. As you can see it looks awesome as well: 




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The Black&White Technique. Tiger I 1/48 by JOSE LUIS LOPEZ. (III)


More steps! .... I see the end!!!!!

Washes ... they always help to increase the perception of the details of the kit. 1/48 kits are not as accurate as 1/35 counterparts. And if there were the same quantity of aftermarkets available for the quarter scale, they´d be more difficult to place that in the bigger scale. 1/35 PE sets are a nightmare by them self so, in 1/48, for not very skilled modellers like me, are just a Chimera. So, in my case, I have to hide this with the paint, showing as much as possible the details available in the kit and bring them to life.

Before the washes, I applied a pair of solid coats of Tamiya´s clear, the perfect base for washes as it facilitates the washes to run easily around the kits details.

For this task, as in the previous steps, I used Tamiya Panel Line Accent colour mixed with KX 52 Flat Earth, using Tamiya´s thinner (blue cap) to keep the mix fluid and easy to handle:




Oils: Modeller´s best friend without a doubt! Easy to handle, slow dry, excellent blur just perfect! Using different oil colours, Naples Yellow, Van Dyke Brown, natural umber, blue, white, red . And using the well-know technique of dots I faded the grey colour trying to reduce the contrast of the different shades of the grey and hiding a little bit the chipping aggressive effect of previous steps:


A couple of detail shots of the weathering so far. After this step, I´m ready for the real heavy weathering with dust and dirt:


I used AK Interactive´s enamel Africa dust (AK22) instead Tamiya´s enamel because I felt that the yellowish dust of this product will suit perfectly to the Kitty. If you have not this product, you can also use Tamiya´s enamel paint to do it mixing buff, white and a little bit of desert yellow.

This technique is used by many modellers and the results are really awesome for me. But you must be strong and have faith on your hands, as the intermediate steps of this technique are, how to say this, difficult to assimilate if you have not clear the final look of the tank finished.

I directly airbrushed the product from the bottle without problems:


Now, using AK´s thinner, I started to remove the applied dust to my taste. I just waited 15 minutes and then, using a brush, I cleaned the kit in the desired areas. Even the next day I was able to do this because of the enamel´s nature of the AK´s product. I must say that I´m happy this product, easy to apply and easy to remove with a tasty colour for me. What else?:

Once the base dust colour shapes are OK for me, I applied a nice coat of matt varnish (Marabu) to seal the dust and to avoid any damage from further steps.

Once dry, a pair of days, be patience, I add some dirt details here and there using acrylic paints. I always use the same colours for this: black, dark mud and buff. Mixing them I got a nice dirt colour series. I added a lot of water to the mix to ensure that the desired effects are subtle and if I want a more intense effect, I have just to insist with the brush more times, that ´s all!

So, using these colours, I made different contrast in the dust for a more attractive look. Important thing in this step: The dust on a kit makes it looks, how to say, diffuse, smashed potatoes. Undefined. Excuse me for my lack of English! The dust makes all the details to disappear. So, we have to help the kit with some washes here and there. For me, a kit without depth in the details is a fool! I made the washes using the darkest mixes of the acrylic paint.

So, finally, I think that I managed to return to a highly contrasted Kitty even with dust:





The only remaining effect is the mud, but that will be in the following chapter. I PROMISE that the next part... will be the last!!!!! happy.gifhappy.gifhappy.gif



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The Black&White Technique. Tiger I 1/48 by JOSE LUIS LOPEZ. (II)


The Panzer Grey base colour: 
I just used Tamiya´s XF-63 with a little bit of pure white and I applied this extremely thinned paint mix (90% thinner) in several coats. I insisted with the mix more or less depending the place but, as can be clearly seen in the pictures, all the underneath effects can be clearly seen and look integrated with the base colour. Just at the end, I airbrushed pure white in a few parts to get the maximum light.

Is very important to airbrush slowly the base coat, no hurry. Just see how it covers little by little the weathered base to your taste. You can hide the awful dirt spots or the illogical and ugly chips.

And most important: From this moment, you have a base colour that will be really helpful in the following steps as you have a map, a guide to highlight, chip and weather your kit. From now ahead, you have your second chance.





Now, time to the first base coat for the accessories. Probably once the vehicle is close to be finished, I´ll change some of the colours according to the general aspect of the vehicle. But I like to paint this base coat to the tools, accessories, because it really helps to evaluate the general contrast and finish of the tank. I used different brown colours for the wooden parts and pure black for the metallic parts. 

In this step, I´ll add some light points to the tank. Using a light mix of black, white and medium blue (acrylics) and using a brush, I start to highlight rivets, edges, hinges, etc. Maybe the result in this step is a little bit unrealistic, but it´s the perfect base for future weathering works. These parts will suffer different treatment that will darken them to my taste, but always maintaining a subtle colour and light difference with the neighbouring tank parts.

Is this colour modulation? Maybe, I do not know, but really works for me!


Chipping, as well as adding mud, are the most frightening steps for modellers. Many great kits with excellent base coats, filters, etc, are spoiled in this step. Reasons are various. The first one is that maybe, the last time we made them, was 4 months ago when we made our last tank. Our hand is cold and it´s not easy to get the pulse and the perfect mix of the paint once we´re beginning our work. In this case, just some days ago, we´ve already made plenty of them in our B&W base colour. So, our hand is ready! And now, under the base coat, we see some of the chips and scratches we have already done, so it´s not so terrifying for us, because our terrible enemy, a flat, clean surfaces, is already dirt, showing some chipping effect. What we have just to decide if we increase them or not!

And, as we have seen the B&W weathered step, we already know which chips are right and which are wrong. So, as I use to say, we do not work under pressure, we have a ready hand and a clear idea about where to put our chips and scratches.

For this step, I made three different grey colours for the superficial chippings.

And with a mix of black and red, the deeper ones.



Some detail shots:


The next step will be about washes, oils and more weathering.



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