PolicyMic-dqscaleworks

The "Ferrari Mad Max" work: Italeri 1/24.

A funny thing this time. What can you do with an old forgotten model? Why not some Sci-Fi stuff!
I used an old Ferrari GTO 1/24 kit from Italeri mixed with some spare parts from the dead models box, some styrene supply and absolutely no complex. It was really funny to build those bizarre, creepy, rusty-looking weapons.
The worn look of the paint is imitated with several layers of Tamiya acrylics. First the aluminum color followed by two thick layers of clear varnish. Next an orange layer and finally a red one. And then I sanded the paint with sandpaper of several grains, until I got the worn look. The final touch is a dusty effect with pigments and some rusty leaks here and there.
Cheers.

Diego Quijano.

Comments(0)

Detailing a Fujimi F-18 1/72 (Part I)

4:41 AM | Labels: 1/72, Articles, Detailing a Fujimi F-18, Fujimi

Link to the finished model

English:
I want to begin with an apology to all those who have been interested in the process of this model for delaying so long the preparation of this article. The problem was that the original pictures of the process, besides being quite bad, were in slide format so I needed some time to arrange and remaster them into digital format. You will notice that some of them are not good enough, but I have not been able to fix them anymore. Still, they are better than nothing so I decided to include them.
I also want to thank Ralph Riese for his help in the translation. All errors are entirely my fault.

Español:
Quiero comenzar pidiendo disculpas a todos aquellos que se han interesado por el proceso de esta maqueta, por haber tardado tanto en preparar el artículo. El problema es que las fotos originales del proceso aparte de ser bastante malas, son antiguas y están en formato de diapositiva, y por lo tanto he tardado bastante en ordenarlas y remasterizarlas en formato digital, notareis que algunas de ellas no han quedado muy bien pero no he sido capaz de mejorarlas más, aún así son mejor que nada por eso he decidido dejarlas.

Materials / Materiales:

1: Good graphic info is essential for this kind of job: books, reviews and the Net are valuable sources.
1: Una buena información gráfica es siempre importante para este tipo de trabajo: libros, revistas e Internet son fuentes valiosas de información.

2: The Fujimi kit and the aftermarket used: Verlinden´s detailing set, Eduard photoetched sheet, Hi-Decal sheet for the adversary markings, and Aztek decal sheet for the "21 Escuadrón" markings.
2: La maqueta de Fujimi y los complementos usados: El set de detalle de Verlinden, una hoja de fotograbados de Eduard, la hoja de calcas de Hi-Decal para el F-18 agresor y la hoja de calcas de Aztek para las insignias del 21 Escuadrón.

3: Stretched sprue. To make some rods of stretched sprue first you heat the sprue and when the sprue is soft you can remove it from the flame and stretch it to any thickness you desire.
3: Plástico estirado. Para hacer varillas de plástico estirado primero se calienta una sección del soporte de las piezas, cuando este bastante blando se retira de la llama y se estira hasta conseguir el grosor deseado.

4: With stretched sprue and other styrene round rods you can make every cylindrical element you need.
4: Con plástico estirado y otras varillas de poliestireno se pueden hacer todos los detalles cilíndricos que necesitemos.

5: The styrene strips are useful to build the square-section elements.
5: Las tiras de poliestireno son útiles para construir todos los elementos de sección cuadrada o rectangular.

6: Styrene sheets along with other material sheets such as tin or aluminum are also useful.
6: Las láminas de poliestireno así como de otros materiales como estaño o aluminio también son muy útiles.

7: Finally, the metallic wire, bared or insulated, is also good stuff.
7: Finalmente, los cables metálicos, desnudos o aislados, son también muy útiles.

Beginning with the cockpit / Comenzando con el cockpit:

8: The first step is to hollow the avionics bays and other opened panels. Then the inner structure is built with styrene sheet. For gluing the styrene pieces we must use styrene cement.
8: El primer paso es agujerear los compartimentos de aviónica y los otros paneles que queramos dejar abiertos. Entonces se construye la estructura interior con secciones de lámina de estireno cortadas con la medida apropiada. Para pegar las piezas de poliestireno (a partir de ahora lo llamaré solo estireno) uso pegamento especial para estireno.

9: To build the lateral control panels in the cockpit first I engraved the lines on a thin styrene sheet with a scriber, and then cut the piece and glued it in place. Over this piece I attached all the small switches and buttons.
9: Para construir las consolas laterales del cockpit primero marqué las líneas en una lámina fina de estireno con un grabador o scriber, seguidamente corte la pieza a la medida y la pegué en su lugar. Sobre esta pieza se pega el resto de pequeñas clavijas y botones.

10: The buttons are made with small discs of stretched sprue (black and red) and the switches from small sections of thin stretched sprue (black). It is important to get the right volume in these elements because this will ease the paintjob.
10: Los botones están hechos con pequeños discos de plástico estirado (negro y rojo en la foto) y las clavijas son pequeñas secciones de plástico estirado negro. Es importante conseguir un volumen correcto en estas piezas ya que ello facilitará la pintura de dichos elementos.

11: The cockpit side structure is a section of styrene sheet over which I glued some other styrene pieces. The metallic pieces are sections of tin sheet, which is easy engrave textures such as the quilting of the compartment behind the cockpit. The small rivets, screws or buttons are made with small discs of stretched sprue. The red wire is also a section of stretched sprue bent to shape with fine tweezers.
11: La estructura lateral del cockpit es una sección de lámina de estireno sobre la cual pegué algunas piezas de estireno. Las piezas metálicas son secciones de lámina de estaño, sobre este material es fácil grabar ciertas texturas como el acolchado del compartimento detrás del cockpit. Los pequeños remaches, tornillos o botones se hacen con pequeños discos de plástico estirado. El cable rojo también es un trozo de plástico estirado doblado hasta su forma correcta con unas pinzas finas.

12: The main control panel and two electronic boxes located in the compartment behind the cockpit. The main shape of the boxes is made with a thick styrene strip, then we can detail them with more small pieces of styrene.
12: El panel de control principal y las dos cajas de aviónica que van en el compartimento detrás del cockpit. La forma principal de las cajas se hace con una varilla gruesa de estireno, después se detallan con otras piezas más pequeñas de estireno.

13: The dashboard cover has some styrene detailing, the HUD frame is Verlinden´s photoetched. At the right is the cover of the compartment behind the cockpit which also has some photoetched elements added.
13: La cubierta del panel de control también tiene cierto detallado con estireno, la estructura del HUD es del fotograbado de Verlinden. A la derecha está la cubierta del compartimento tras el cockpit, también tiene algún elemento de fotograbado.

14: The ejection seat is resin replacement included in the Verlinden detail set. As you can see it couldn’t escape from some further detailing. It also got some metallic wires to imitate some tubes. All of the styrene and non-styrene elements in contact with the resin seat were glued with cyanoacrylate.
14: El asiento eyectable es una pieza de resina perteneciente al set de Verlinden. Tampoco pudo escaparse de su ración de detallado. Tiene algunos cables metálicos para imitar ciertos tubos. Todos los elementos de estireno en contacto con la resina se tienen que pegar con cianoacrilato, por supuesto con los elementos metálicos ocurre igual.

15: Other interesting area is the cannon and radar housing. Again, the structure is made with white styrene pieces, then I used a few sections of red stretched sprue to imitate some cylindrical details and black stretched sprue for the wires.
15: Otro área interesante, el compartimento del cañón y del radar. De nuevo, la estructura se hace con varillas cuadradas de estireno, rodajas de plástico estirado rojo para imitar algunos detalles cilíndricos y plástico estirado doblado (negro esta vez) para imitar los cables.

16-17: The different elements are not yet glued in place but is important to check the fitting frequently.
16-17: Las diferentes secciones todavía no están pegadas en su lugar pero es importante comprobar el encaje frecuentemente a medida que construimos.

LINK TO PART II

Comments(0)

The "Semper Fi Harrier" work: Hasegawa 1/72.

4:49 AM | Labels: 1/72, Aircrafts, Hasegawa

At the time I made this model I was very influenced by Shigeo Koike´s boxart works so I tried to give the model a sort of illustration look. The photo-montage of the first pic is made using the cloudy sky of Mr. Koike´s "LOCKHEED VEGA" illustration.
This U.S.M.C. AV-8B Harrier II Plus is made almost from the box, with no aftermarket at all. Only minimun detail in cockpit and landing gear done with rods of stretched sprue and styrene sheets, the seat belts were made with stripes of Tamiya masking tape.
The model was painted using Model Air colors. The weathering is done first with some spots of oil colors blended with white spirit, then I shadowed some panel lines with masking tape and Tamiya Smoke. I marked the panel lines with a fine pencil and black oil paint for the lines of moving elements, the rivets were also imitated with the pencil. The characteristic fluid leaks and stains of dragged dirt were imitated with a 4B graphite pencil and a blending stump.
This was a very quick model and so very funny to build.

Diego Quijano.

Comments(0)

The "Tie Fighter" work: Fine Molds 1/72.

6:23 AM | Labels: 1/72, Fine Molds, Sci-Fi, Star Wars

Let´s give a chance to Sci-Fi. This Fine Molds kit is really well detailed wich makes the paint process much easier. This work represent an Imperial Tie fighter under repair after severe damage in one of the wings. The new wing imitates an unpainted spare part so we can see the components in it´s priming color. The repair bay is made with unused pieces from old models and some scratch pieces. This time I wanted a clean look, like those hi-tech Formula 1 cars under repair where you see no dirt, so there is no need of weathering. The paint of the main ship is made with Model Air colors, a base coat of light grey and the center of the panels highlighted with white. The spare wing paint is a coat base of aluminiun, then some elements are airbrushed whith yellow clear to imitate a "brass" primer layer. Then I painted the rest of the panels and elements with a fine brush in greenish and yellowish tones to imitate other primer colors. Next I applied a protective coat of gloss acrylic varnish so I could profile the raised details and panel lines with black oil paint diluted with white spirit. The repair bay is painted the same way in an "Imperial grey" tone (some sort of blueish dark grey). The transparent film of the energy panels imitates a kind of protective cover. The satin finish is made with a mix of Model Air satin and gloss varnish.
It´s not the last time you´ll see Sci-Fi stuff in Scaleworks. Hope you enjoy it.

Diego Quijano.

Comments(0)

The "Jolly Rogers" work: Hasegawa 1/72.

10:29 PM | Labels: 1/72, Aircrafts, Hasegawa

One of the oldest models you will see in Scaleworks. This was the first time I used photoetched parts (a Verlinden set) to detail a model , I also add some copper wire and some pieces or styrene in the landing gear. To recreate the moment of landing, the flaps and slats were cut to put them in landing position, the air brakes and arresting hook was extended and I also had to lengthen the hidraulic of the front landing gear to the completely extended position.
For the painting I used AeroMaster Acrylic paints. The "Jolly Rogers" decals are from Superscale and the lettering and stencils are Verlinden´s dry transfer. I used the Aero Detail #4 to know where to place all the stencils and for graphic reference. The panel lines were marked with a 0.5 HB sharp pencil.
The weathering is concentrated almost entirely on the underside (it also was the first time I weathered a model). At that time I made it with pastel powder, black, brown and ochre, applied dry for the blur effect and wet with water for the sharper marks. Currently I make this things with oil paints.
With this model I did several things for the first time, detailing, weathering, aftermarket decals... It is oldie but very dear to me because it was a great evolution for my way of making models.

Diego Quijano.